Motorgrader Inspection
Motorgrader Inspection Guide
- Steering: With the engine running, depress the clutch and turn the steering wheel both to the left and the right. If you feel the clutch pedal kick up on your foot as you do this, the cushion valve on the grader could be going bad, eventually locking up the steering.
- Hydraulics: Watch for leaks around hydraulic cylinders and damage to the rods and pins. There should be no extra play between the stirrup arms and hydraulic cylinders as the grader is raised off the ground.
- Front Wheels: With the front end 6 inches off the ground, both front wheels should spin and move left and right freely with no extra play in the radius arms. To check axle center pin and axle pivot point, push one of the wheels down hard: The axle should move freely, but not bounce up after hitting the ground.
- Circle: The circle bears the brunt of force during grading, and must be examined closely. Pay extra attention to the teeth on the circle: Even small amounts of wear can disrupt fine grading work and be expensive to replace. Have a helper move the circle through its full range of motions and watch for excessive play on the circle turn cranks and associated linkage systems. Look for cracks, welds or plates on the circle or A-frame.
- Moldboard: The moldboard should also be closely examined for excessive wear, both top and bottom. Make sure all cutting edge bolts are present. The slide rails at the top of the moldboard should be smooth, without any impact damage.
- Alignment: Eyeball the machine from the rear and make sure it is standing up straight and not leaning to one side. Take a tape measure and check the distance from the tandems to the frame for all rear wheels. All measurements should be consistent.
- Tires: Inspect the tread depth of all four tires. Note overall tread condition and confirm all tires match. Look for tears and other excessive damage to sidewalls and treads. Inspect brake systems. Note leakage and overall condition of rotors, drums, pads and linings.